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  • Writer's pictureAimee Brabant

Crochet Granny Square Bag




November 22, 2023



The Crochet Granny Square Bag is an on trend crochet purse design. It is a great way to use up leftover yarn, or you can plan out your favorite colors. It uses an easy Granny Square, and an intermediate JAYGO method to join the squares into the shape that is needed. You can add a tubular rope handle to complete the look of this pretty bag. The Crochet Granny Square Bag may become your favorite purse this holiday season. It is so quick and easy to make that you may wish to give it as a gift this Christmas. I plan to use my new bag to carry my crochet projects when I leave the house.




This pattern is written by Carolyn by thepurpleponcho.com





About Carolyn

Welcome to the Purple Poncho, Crochet by Carolyn. I’m so happy you’re here and thank you for your interest in my designs. If you like crochet, flowers, the beach and yarn, you’re in the right place. I’ve been crafting my entire life and can’t imagine not having a project in my hands at all times. I’m very busy with my family, husband and two kids, as well as my crochet. I started this journey to have something to do when my kids left home. Well, that time is here, and I’m so glad I have my crochet to fill my days and hands.



Tips:


  • Right side is always facing.

  • I recommend to weave in your ends after each Round, or at the end of making each square, then weave them all in at once.

  • Great way to use up your scrap or stash yarn, but you could buy certain colors and plan your squares out.

  • Each additional Round will increase your stitch count by twelve double crochet stitches, or by one additional space on each side of the square.



Skill Level:


Intermediate


Size:


Individual square 6.5″ x 6.5″, Finished Bag 16″ W x 16″ L, excludes handles.


Handles:


15″ long.




MATERIALS:


Yarn:

#4 worsted weight in 8-9 colors, shown in Caron One Pound, 260 yards total, Main Color – black (or white) 265-300 yards


The following are the terns & colors that I chose to work with:


Caron Worsted Acrylic One Pound Yarn


Azure


Seafoam


When it comes to value, nothing beats Caron One Pound! This worsted weight yarn is available in a wide range of shades, perfect for a variety of knit and crochet projects like accessories, garments, home decor, baby and kids patterns. One Pound skein is economical, with excellent yardage – one skein makes four scarves! Conveniently washable and dryable for easy care. • One skein makes 4 scarves • Content: 100% Acrylic • Ball Size: 454g / 16oz, 742m / 812yd • Care: Machine wash and dry • Gauge: 4 - Worsted • Knitting Gauge: 16 sts and 20 rows with a 5 mm (U.S. 8) knitting needle • Crochet Gauge: 12 sc and 13 rows with a 5 mm (U.S. H/8) crochet hook • Use for: Knit and crochet accessories, garments, and home decor projects • Recommended Knitting Needle: 5 mm • Recommended Crochet Hook: 5 mm


Toffee



Big Twist

6oz Solid Medium Weight Acrylic 380yd

Value Yarn by Big Twist

Big Twist Value Yarn is a yarn for big projects that just need to be made. Durable, functional, and affordable, this yarn is perfect for afghans, family projects, and all of your charity needs. • Content: 100% Acrylic • Yarn Weight: 4 Medium • Weight & Yardage: 170g/6oz, 347m/380yds • Knit Gauge: 4in = 18 sts × 24 Rows • Crochet Gauge: 4in = 13sc × 14 Rows • Recommended Needle: US 8 (5mm) • Recommended Hook: H-8 (5mm)

• Care: Machine wash and air dry (do not use dryer); do not iron or bleach. • The manufacturer tries to match dye lots but they are not guaranteed.




Buff


Red Heart Super Saver Yarn

Super Saver yarn has been a favorite among knitters and crocheters for over 30 years. This 100% acrylic worsted weight, size 4 yarn comes in over 120 beautiful colors, so you will always find the perfect color to complete your project. No-dye-lot solids mean all skeins of a solid color match, so it’s easy to buy another skein and continue the project. Plus after you make your project it will be made to last, as Red Heart Super Saver yarn is durable and will stand the test of time, wash after wash. This product holds the OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification. • Content Solids, Stripes, Prints & Variegates: 100% Acrylic • Content Flecks: 96% Acrylic, 4% other fibers • Ball Size Solids: 198g / 7oz, 333m / 364yd • Ball Size Prints,Variegates & Stripes: 141g / 5oz, 215m /236yd • Ball Size Flecks & Heathers: 141g / 5oz, 238m / 260yd • Care: Machine wash and dry • Gauge: 4 - Worsted • Knitting Gauge: 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm) 17 sts x 23 rows with a 5 mm (U.S. 8) knitting needle • Crochet Gauge: 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm) 12 sc x 15 rows with a 5.5 mm (U.S. I-9) crochet hook • Recommended Knitting Needle: 5 mm • Recommended Crochet Hook: 5.5 mm




I decided to use a 5.5mm crochet hook.


  • Hook: 5.00 mm, H/8

  • Scissors

  • Stitch Markers

  • Tape Measure

  • Yarn needle



Gauge:


not critical to this square




Abbreviations:


In US Terminology

beg – beginning

ch – chain

dc – double crochet

RS – right side

sc – single crochet

sl st – slip stitch

sp(s) – space(s)

st(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

yo – yarn over



Notes:


  • Written in US terminology

  • Right side is always facing.

  • Ch 3 does count as a double crochet stitch throughout.

  • Change colors after each Round.

  • Begin Rounds 2-5 in any corner space.


You can find several instructional videos on YouTube about how to basest assemble your Crochet Granny Square Bag. I liked the following one, by Erica Arendt:









I made 13 Granny Squares ahead of time to try and use up my leftover yarn. Each square measures 6 in square.

(please see photos above)


DIRECTIONS:


Make 13 squares through Round 4.

With size H/5.00 mm hookColor A – Ch 4, sl st to 1st ch to form a ring.

Note: work all dc stitches into the center of the ring.


Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc throughout), 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, repeat - around 3 times, end with ch 2, join with sl st to top of ch 3.(12 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps). End off yarn.


Note: Begin Rounds 2 – 5 in any ch-2 corner space.


Color B – with slip knot on hook


Round 2: Sl st to any ch-2 corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp repeat - around 3 times, 3 dc in beg ch-2 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (24 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps). End off yarn.


Note: 3 dc in next sp refers to the space between 2 sets of 3 dcs on each side, and note that the amount of spaces will increase by 1 space each additional Round.


Color C – with slip knot on hook


Round 3: Sl st to any ch-2 corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, 3 dc in next sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp repeat - around 3 times, 3 dc in beg ch-2 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (36 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps). End off yarn.


Color D – with slip knot on hook


Round 4: Sl st to any ch-2 corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, [3 dc in next sp] 2 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp repeat - around 3 times, 3 dc in beg ch-2 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (48 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps). Weave in ends.

Complete 13 squares through Round 4, then continue to Assembly.





ASSEMBLY:


Arrange your squares in the order you want them, like the Assembly Chart photo below, then connect or join them together in numerical order 1-13, completing Round 5 and joining at the same time.



Note: I found the the following diagram easier to use. It is from the instructional YouTube video by Erica Arendt:






Note: I began by attaching all the corners together with a piece of yarn. I started with the right side pieces: 6, 3, 1, & 7, 5, 2 (see above photo)


Note: I used a yarn needle to hand stitch each granny square edge to its corresponding adjacent square. I stiched each by using the back stitches only. Make sure to carefully align each stitch. (make sure to use the same color yarn that matches the outside color, or main color, of each square).



Note: Make sure that all of the squares have the right side pointed up, and continue to check while you see the squares together. (see photos above & below).



Fold left side granny square and sew it to the corresponding adjacent granny squares (see above photo).


Fold right side granny square and sew it to the corresponding adjacent granny squares (see photo above).






Work in all the ends. Once you have finished, turn bag to the opposite side--with right side facing.


You are ready to attach the handles (see above photo).



This is the front of the finished bag (see above photo).


This is the back side of the finished bag (see above photo).


Arrange squares how you want them on your finished bag, all with RS facing.


Connect, or JAYGO, in numerical order, 1-13, as in photo above.


Fold lines are in dashes. SM = stitch marker at top of Squares 1 & 2 where handles go.

Arrows indicate fold on top of each other, 5 & 8, and 4 & 7.


Square #1 = complete through Round 5a individually.


Square #2 = complete Round 5b, join one corner only to Square #1, see X in above photo.


Square #3 = join to Square 1 and then 2, two sided join.


Square #4 = join to Square 3, one sided join.


Square #5 = join to Square 3, one sided join.


Square #6 = join to Square 4 and then 5, two sided join.



Once you’ve joined Squares 1-6, fold your bag in half with RS facing out. Place your squares in the order of joining again, continue joining in numeric order.


Square #7 = join to Square 4 and then 6, two sided join.


Square #8 = join to Square 6 and then 5, two sided join.


Square #9 = join to Square 7 and then 8, two sided join.


Square #10 = join to Square 9, one sided join.


Square #11 = join to Square 9, one sided join.


Square #12 = join to Square 5, then 2, then 11, then 8, four sided join.


Square #13 = join to Square 1, then 4, then 10, then 7, four sided join.


Notes:


  • Complete 13 squares through Round 4.

  • Place WS facing of adjacent square, RS facing of current square. Work in current square unless specified to work in adjacent square.

  • Main Color – begin with slip knot on hook throughout Assembly.

  • Begin in ch-2 space of any corner on current square, but follow assembly chart.

  • Round 5 corners = 3dc, ch3, 3dc (all previous Round corners had 3dc, ch2, 3dc).

  • Weave in ends as you go.


Square with no join (Square 1)

Round 5a: Sl st to any ch-2 corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, [3 dc in next sp] 3 times, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp repeat - around 3 times, 3 dc in beg ch-2 sp, ch 3, end with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (60 dc, 4 corner ch-3 sps).


Square with one corner join (Square 2)

Round 5b: Sl st to any ch-2 corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, join with sl st to 2nd ch of adjacent square corner, ch 1, 3 dc in same corner sp, [3 dc in next sp] 3 times, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp repeat - around 3 times, end with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (60 dc, 4 corner ch-3 sps).


Place stitch marker in top corners of Square 1 & 2 where handles will go to mark the top of the bag.


Squares with one sided join (Squares 4,5,10,11):


Notes: Place WS facing of adjacent square, RS facing of current square. Work in current square unless specified to work in adjacent square. Begin in ch-2 space of any corner on current square.


Round 5c: Sl st to any ch-2 corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, join with sl st to 2nd ch of adjacent square corner, ch 1, 3 dc in same corner sp, [skip 3 sts on adjacent square, sl st in next sp of adjacent square, skip 3 sts, 3 dc in next sp] 3x, skip 3 sts, sl st in next sp of adjacent square, 3 dc in corner sp, ch 1, join with sl st to 2nd ch of adjacent square corner, ch 1, 3 dc in same corner sp, [skip 3 sts, 3 dc in next st] 3x, skip 3 sts, (3 dc in ch-2 corner sp, ch 3, 3 dc in same corner sp), repeat from , end with skip 3 sts, sl st to beg dc. (60 dc, 4 corner ch-3 loops).



Squares with two sided join (Squares 3,6,7,8,9):


Round 5d: Sl st to any ch-2 corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, join with sl st to 2nd ch of adjacent square corner, ch 1, 3 dc in same corner sp, [skip 3 sts on adjacent square, sl st in next sp of adjacent square, skip 3 sts, 3 dc in next sp] 3x, skip 3 sts, sl st to next sp of adjacent square, (3 dc in corner sp, ch 1, join with sl st to 2nd ch of adjacent square corner, ch 1, 3 dc in same corner sp), repeat - 1 more time working into next adjacent square, [skip 3 sts, 3 dc in next st] 3x, skip 3 sts, (3 dc in ch-2 corner sp, ch 3, 3 dc in same corner sp), repeat from 1 more time, end with skip 3 sts, sl st to beg dc. (60 dc, 4 corner ch-3 loops).



Squares with four sided join (Squares 12, 13):


Round 5e: Sl st to any ch-2 corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, join with sl st to 2nd ch of adjacent square corner, ch 1, 3 dc in same corner sp, [skip 3 sts on adjacent square, sl st in next sp of adjacent square, skip 3 sts, 3 dc in next sp] 3x, skip 3 sts, sl st to next sp of adjacent square, (3 dc in corner sp, ch 1, join with sl st to 2nd ch of adjacent square corner, ch 1, 3 dc in same corner sp), repeat - 3 more times joining to a different square each side, but on last repeat, end before beg corner, sl st to beg dc. (60 dc, 4 corner ch-3 loops).



Top Opening Edge:


Main Color – with slip knot on hook, begin in any stitch.


Round 1: Sc in each st around, placing 3 sc in each ch-3 sp; where squares are joined place 1 sc in corner sp of each square, skip the join, repeat - around, end with sl st to beg st.


Round 2: Ch 1, sl st in next st, repeat - around, end with sl st to beg st. End off yarn, weave in all ends.



HANDLES:


Worked in continuous rounds, down the WS sides of the single crochet stitch. Rotate your work slightly to make your next stitch. The RS of stitches will be on the inside of the tube.


Main Color – with slip knot on hook.


Make 2. Leave a 12” tail, ch 6, sl st to beg ch to form a ring.


Round 1: 1 sc in each st around, do not join. Place stitch marker in first sc.


Round 2: 1 sc in each st around, to stitch marker (take out or move up each Round).


Round 3: 1 sc in each horizontal loop (side leg) on WS of previous Round sc, in each st around.

Continue Round 3 until your handle measures 15 inches, or to your desired length.

Remove stitch marker, leave a 12” tail for seaming to bag.


Seam the handle ends to the inside of the bag, attaching approximately one inch down inside, to the top point of the square. One handle will be sewn to squares 1 & 2, the other handle to squares 10 & 11. Weave in ends.












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