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  • Writer's pictureAimee Brabant

Crochet Granny Stitch Sweater





January 4, 2024



The Easy Crochet Granny Stitch Sweater is a simple beginner sweater design. With its easy top-down construction and simple stitch pattern, you will be on your way to crocheting this free crochet sweater pattern in no time!

Crocheting this easy Granny Stitch Sweater may seem daunting to some, but the benefits of creating your own handmade garments are numerous. It allows you to express your creativity by selecting the colours and textures you want for your clothing and serve as a way to relax and unwind after a long day. Additionally, the pride and sense of accomplishment of completing a gorgeous crochet sweater like this can be immeasurable. Plus, with the timeless appeal of the crochet granny stitch pattern, your sweater can be worn throughout the years and cherished by generations to come. So, take a chance, grab a hook and get started on your next amazing creation!


This pattern is written by Michelle at




About Michelle

Michelle is the owner and designer behind MJ’s Off the Hook Designs, a creative haven for yarn lovers and a popular resource for accessory, garment and home decor crochet patterns. She’s best known for her fun, whimsical blanket patterns, many of which have gone viral. Michelle is passionate about teaching others to crochet through her YouTube channel and includes video tutorials with her designs.

Michelle resides on a farm in Ontario, Canada, with her husband and four children. She enjoys spending time with family and friends camping and hiking, but most evenings involve watching Netflix and crocheting.







Crochet Granny Stitch Sweater







Yarn Requirements:


Mary Maxim Prism (CDN)

Shown in Wild Orchids & Water’s Edge

Light Weight #3

290 Yards, 100 Grams, 100% Acrylic

XS (S, M, L, XL,2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8) balls

Add an additional ball for a tunic length. Optional ribbing in Mary Maxim Best Value (CDN) Shown in Cottonwood (1 ball). Or crochet the entire sweater in cottonwood, as shown.





Yarn Substitutes:


Mary Maxim Prism is a gorgeous lightweight variegated acrylic yarn that resembles a wool look. If you’re looking for substitutes, I have provided a few options that will work well with this pattern.

Try Mary Maxim Best Value (CDN) or Mellowspun (CDN) if you prefer a solid-coloured yarn. The cottonwood-coloured crop sweater was crocheted in Best Value, and it gauged smaller, so you may want to go up in hook size for similar measurements to Prism.


Lion Brand Mandela will also work great as an affordable gradient alternative. King Cole Riot DK is an excellent wool/acrylic substitute coming in a few dark variegated woodsy colors.

You can also check out WeCrochet Chroma Twist and Brava Stripes. These are a worsted weight #4, but they will still work for this pattern. Make sure to check your gauge and adjust the hook size or size down



Crochet Hooks Needed:


US G/6 (4mm)

US H/8 (5mm)

or size needed to obtain gauge




Additional Materials:


  • Yarn Needle

  • Scissors

  • Measuring Tape



Gauge:


4-3 dc cluster and 3 ch-sps (15 sts) & 7 rows equal to 4″ with 5mm crochet hook in pattern

10 sts & 10 rows equal to 2″ with 4mm crochet hook in sc blo


Raglan Top Construction:


The sweater is worked in one piece from the top down in the round. Once the yoke is completed, continue working the body in the round. Join back to the underarm and work each sleeve in the round, finishing with a join-as-you-go cuff. The pattern is written for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parentheses ( ). If there is only 1 number, it applies to all sizes. Step by step video tutorial is provided on our YouTube channel for the small size. Tunic length pullover is shown with ribbing in Mary Maxim Best Value in the colour cottonwood. Cottonwood is also used for the crop version.



There is an instructional video offered at YouTube:




Note:


All sizes have the same size collar and neck opening. Work pullover in rounds until the required size is reached. The pattern is written for the smallest size, with the larger sizes in parentheses ( ). If there is only 1 number, it applies to all sizes—a step-by-step video tutorial is provided on YouTube for the small size.




Collar:


Row 1 (WS):

With the smaller hook, ch 9, 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch across, turn—8 sts.

Row 2 (RS):

Ch 1 (not included as a st here and throughout), 1 sc in the blo of each st across, turn—8 sts.

Rows 3-100:

Rep Row 2. After the final Row, ch 1, fold collar RS facing and sl st together (work through the blo). Flip the collar so that the seam is to the inside.





Yoke:


Setup Round:


Ch 1, work sc sts evenly around the collar ( 1 st/row), sl st in the first sc to join—100 sts. Change to the larger hook.

Round 1:

With the larger hook (optional change colour), ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, ch 1), work 1 dc in the same st (V st made), Ch 1, sk st, 1 dc in the next 3 sts; rep from [4 more times] (right sleeve), ch 1, 1 V st in the next st, Ch 1, sk st, 1 dc in the next 3 sts; rep from [6 more times] (front), ch 1, 1 V st in the next st, Ch 1, sk st, 1 dc in the next 3 sts; rep from [4 more times] (left sleeve), ch 1, 1 V st in the next st, Ch 1, sk st, 1 dc in the next 3 sts; rep from [6 more times] (back), ch 1, sl st in the V st to join—80 sts (does not include ch-1 sps, dc sts only).

Increase pattern begins – Continue increasing the yoke for the size you are working on.

Round 2:

Ch 3, work 1 dc in ch-1 sp (V st made), ch 1, 3 dc in ch-1 sp; rep from to V st (right sleeve), ch 1, in V work 1 V st, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-1 sp; rep from to V st (front), ch 1, in V work 1 V st, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-1 sp; rep from to V st (left sleeve), ch 1, in V work 1 V st, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-1 sp; rep from to V st (back), ch 1, sl st in the V st to join—92 sts (does not include ch-1 sps, dc sts only).

Rounds 3-10 (12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26):

Rep Round 2, increasing each section (sleeve, front, sleeve, back) by 3 sts (3 dc cluster) each round ending with—188 (212, 236, 260, 284, 308, 332, 356, 380) sts.


Separate Body and Sleeves:




Body


Round 1:

Skip over the right sleeve section to the next V st, sl st in the V, sl st in the first ch 1 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from across the front to the next V st, ch 1, sk V st, sk over the left sleeve section to the next V st, sk V st, in the next ch 1-sp work 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from across the back, ch 1, sl st in ch 3 to join—102 (114, 126, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186, 198) sts (not including chs).

Round 2:

Sl st across to the first ch-1 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in the first ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from around, ch 1, sl st in ch 3 to join—102 (114, 126, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186, 198) sts.

Rounds 3-19:

Rep Round 2. Try on the sweater as you go. Crochet to the desired length; 19 rounds will give you a hip length of 11″ from the underarm, 15 rounds will give you 9″ for a cropped length (cottonwood sample), and 24 rounds will give you 13.5″ for a tunic length (water’s edge sample). The band will add an additional 1.75″ to the length. Note that the Prism yarn will stretch.

Round 20:

With the smaller hook (optional change colour), ch 1, work 1 sc in each dc st around. If you prefer more ease around the band, work a sc in the dc’s and ch-1 sps—102 (114, 126, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186, 198) sts.


Band


The band is joined as you go to the body edge.

Row 1:

With the smaller hook, ch 9, 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, sk first st at the body edge, sl st in the next 2 sts (body edge), turn—8 sts.

Row 2:

Sk sl sts, 1 sc in the blo of each st across, turn—8 sts.

Row 3:

Ch 1, work 1 sc in the blo of each st across, sl st in next 2 sts (body edge), turn—8 sts.

Rows 4-102 (114, 126, 138, 150, 162, 174, 186, 198):

Rep Row 2 & 3 ending on Row 2. In the last Row, ch 1, with RS facing sl st band together, fasten off and weave in ends.




Sleeves:


The directions are for a 17″ sleeve, including the cuff.


Left Sleeve


Round 1:

Put a slip knot on the larger hook; at the underarm, work a sl st in the first V st, sl st in the next V st, sl st in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from around, ch 1, sl st in ch 3 to join—45 (51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81, 87, 93) sts (not including chs).

Round 2:

Sl st across to the first ch-1 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in the first ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from around, ch 1, sl st in ch 3 to join—45 (51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81, 87, 93) sts.

Rounds 3-26:

Rep Round 2. Try on the sweater as you go. Crochet the sleeves to the desired length. The band will add an additional 1.75″ to the length.

Round 27:

With the smaller hook (optional change colour), ch 1, work 1 sc in the 2nd dc of the 3 dc cluster, work 1 sc in each ch-1 sp and the 2nd dc of the 3 dc cluster around, sl st in the first sc to join—30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62) sts.




Cuff:


Join the cuff to the sleeve edge as you go.


Row 1:

With the smaller hook, ch 9, 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, sk first st at the sleeve edge, sl st in the next 2 sts (sleeve edge), turn—8 sts.

Row 2:

Sk sl sts, 1 sc in the blo of each st across, turn—8 sts.

Row 3:

Ch 1, work 1 sc in the blo of each st across, sl st in next 2 sts (sleeve edge), turn—8 sts.

Rows 4-30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62):

Rep Row 2 & 3 ending on Row 2. Last Row, ch 1, with RS facing sl st cuff together, fasten off and weave in ends.


Right Sleeve:


Round 1 (RS):

Put a slip knot on the larger hook at the underarm to the left, sl st in the first ch-1 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from around, ch 1, sl st in ch 3 to join—45 (51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81, 87, 93) sts (not including chs).


Follow the same instructions for Left Sleeve.



How did you modify this pattern? Please share in the comments. Thank you for sharing!



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