Aimee Brabant
- Nov 6, 2023
- 5 min read

Solana Crochet Sunglasses Case

November 6, 2023

I have recently downsized my purse into a crossbody bag, and I am making the Solana Crochet Sunglasses Case to help protect my glasses inside my new purse. This project excites me because I played around with some spike stitches and came upon a stitch pattern that I haven’t been seeing people use and I decided to use this project to to use the stitch pattern. It is so easy once you get the hang of it, and it truly makes one of the most gorgeous stitch patterns I’ve ever seen. I am making this for my own personal use, and to give as gifts for Christmas!

This pattern is written by Dana at daysck.com & dayscrochetmc.com

About Dana

Hi, I’m Dana, and I love to design crochet bags, home decor, hats and ponchos. Most of my patterns are designed for those who sell crochet at craft fairs and vendor markets, but also are for any crocheter who loves the modern boho look.

Dana describes this pattern as:

"I decided to dub this stitch pattern the Woven Twill stitch. If you have ever admired beautifully woven baskets, you have probably seen a basket using a similar pattern (called “twill”). I decided it would be a perfect name for such a beautiful stitch pattern. The cool thing about this stitch pattern is that it uses the most basic stitches out there and can actually be made using ALL single crochet stitches or alternating singles and half doubles. You know me—I love versatility! I decided to make this sunglass case by alternating singles and half doubles, but it is actually easier to use all singles." Dana, author of pattern

You can also find an instructional video for this project on YouTube:

Materials Needed:

-Approx. 115-125 yds of Bernat Maker Dec yarn, or a comparable size 5 yarn (you can also double worsted weight cotton)

-Size J 6.0 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
14 mm wooden bead or button
-Scissors
tape measure
yarn needle
2 stitch markers

Terms Used and Abbreviations:

Pattern is written in US terminology.

Back Loop Only - BLO

Beginning - beg

Chain(s) - ch(s)

Fasten Off - FO

Front Loop Only - FLO

Half Double Crochet - hdc

Half Double Spike - HDS

Place Marker - PM

Repeat - rep

Right Side - RS

Single Crochet - sc

Skip(ped) - sk

Slip Stitch - sl st

Stitch Marker - SM

Space(s) - sp(s)

Stitch(es) - st(s)

Wrong Side - WS

Yarn Over - YO

Special Stitches:

This is a photo of the stitch pattern (see above photo).

Half Double Spike (HDS): The hdc stitch is made the same, but your hook placement will be different. It is a spike stitch in that you insert your hook 2 rows below where you normally would place your hook, drawing up a tall loop so that it is level with the row you are on. There will be links to a video throughout the pattern to help you visualize this stitch in action.

You can find an instructional video with detailed steps on YouTube (see above photo).

Invisible Join: Complete your last st as usual. Leaving a longer tail, cut your working yarn. Pull that tail all the way through your last st (without doing the usual ch 1). Thread tail onto a yarn needle. Going under both loops of the indicated st, take the yarn needle from front to back. Insert your needle from top to bottom of the BLO of the st you came out of. Weave in this tail extremely well since you are not making a knot of any kind to secure.

Gauge:

13 sc and 12 rows = 4" (10 cm)

Finished Measurements:

Empty case measures approx. 7" x 3.75" (18 x 9.5 cm) when buttoned closed and lying flat.

Pattern Notes:

I instruct you to make some of the turning chs loosely. That is because you will be working back into them in the st pattern rows. Be careful that you make them about twice as big as you normally would.

You can also realistically sub a sc spike st for the HDS sts; I just prefer the look of the hdc. If it is causing you confusion, or if you would like to save a bit of yardage, you can make your spike sts using sc sts instead of hdc.

Instructions:

Case is made in the row in one piece and folded/joined in a specific manner.

Row 1: Ch 57, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. [56 sc]

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, working in the FLO sc in each st across. [56 sc FLO]

Row 3: Ch 1 loosely, turn, sc in first st, sk next st, sc, HDS 2 rows below st you just sk, sk next open st, sc, HDS 2 rows below st you just sk; rep from across, sk last st, sc in turning ch below. [56 sts] For help with this row, see my video.

Row 4: Ch 1 loosely, turn, sc in first st, sk next st, sc, HDS in top of sk sc 2 rows below, sk next open st, sc, HDS in top of sk sc 2 rows below; rep from across, sk last st, sc in turning ch below. [56 sts] For help with this row, see my video, at YouTube.

Row 5: Rep row 4 times.

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, working in the FLO sc in each st across. [56 sc FLO]

Row 11: Ch 1, turn so you are working along the side of your rows, sc in each row across. Sl st in top of corner st to smooth out corner. [10 sc] For help with this row, see my video on YouTube.

Row 12: Ch 1, turn, loosely sl st in first 5 sc, ch 4 (buttonhole made), loosely sl st in last 5 sc. [10 sl sts, 1 ch-4 sp]

FO using Invisible Join and weave in all tails. Piece should measure approx. 16.5" x 3.3" (42 x 8 cm). To visualize the Invisible Join, see my video.

Assembly:

Side of ribbing (where you worked sts in FLO) is considered the RS of your work. To visualize this process, see my video on YouTube.

Turn your piece WS facing up. At end of buttonhole, count down 11 sts from one side.

Fold bottom up to meet 11th st and PM through both layers in the 11th st and bottommost st of piece on the same side. Mark same sts through both layers on opposite side.

Carefully line up sts on side of seam B so they are not crooked. Starting at the bottom corner, loosely sl st through both layers until you reach the SM.

Ch 1, turn and work along the front edge of the case, sc in each row across until you reach the other SM. [10 sc]

Ch 1, turn so that you are working along Seam A. Loosely sl st through both layers to the bottom. FO and weave in all tails.

Add a tassel (optional):

Using your fingers or cardboard that is 4" (10 cm) wide wrap your yarn 5 times and cut bottoms to create tassel tails.

Take one end of all tails through buttonhole and make ends even.

Cut a length of yarn approx. 5" (13 cm) long and use the Gathering knot just below the buttonhole and around the tassel tails to secure in place. Cut tassel ends evenly. Add button/bead in center front of case at desired level. To visualize this process, see my video.

Finish (optional):

If your front flap seems a bit too small in width, you can add a short round of sl sts along the front. Loosely sl st in each st around to the other side. When you get to the buttonhole, simply sl st into the 2 sc sts below and not into the ch-4 loop. To visualize this, see my video on YouTube.